visit Calistoga

About

joeC7431 — Fri, 20 Jan 2012 23:36:49 +0000

A National Trust for Historic Preservation Distinctive Destination go
Calistoga retains a yesterday charm in a walkable downtown much as it was when spa visitors arrived by train in the late 1800s. Centrally located between Napa and Sonoma counties at the top of the Napa Valley, Calistoga today remains the historic western hot springs resort destination for wine, water, wellness but now hosts many other activities. Ballooning to biking – you can do it all here.

History
500 years ago the Wappo Indians discovered the geyser springs. The Wappo tribe soaked in the hot mineral pools and, due to the health benefits they claimed to enjoy, called the region “Tu-la-halusi…land of health-giving springs.” The Wappo still lived in the upper Napa Valley in the late 1800s. Abundant native oaks provided several villages with acorns, a food staple, and they used the natural hot springs as a healing ground. In the 1830s and 1840s, following Mexican Independence, mission properties were secularized and disposed of by the Mexican government with much of the Napa Valley being partitioned into large ranchos.

Anglo settlers began arriving in the 1840s. Among them, Samuel Brannan, leader of a settlement expedition, landed in Yerba Buena (San Francisco) in 1846 and established San Francisco’s first English language newspaper, the California Star. Brannan pursued many business ventures and became California’s first millionaire. Learning of Calistoga’s natural hot springs, Brannan purchased more than 2,000 acres, intending to develop a spa reminiscent of Saratoga Springs in New York.

His Hot Springs Spa/Hotel opened to California’s rich and famous in 1862 and he forever made “Calistoga” synonymous with good health. The town got its name, the story goes, when Brannan claimed he would make the town the Saratoga of California; only it came out “the Calistoga of Sarifornia.”

By 1868 Brannan’s Valley Railroad Company’s track was completed to Calistoga providing an easier travel option for ferry passengers making the trip from San Francisco. Over time Calistoga’s economy became based on mining (silver and mercury), agriculture (grapes, prunes and walnuts), and tourism (the hot springs). With railroad service, Calistoga became not only a destination, but also the transportation hub for the upper valley and a gateway to Lake and Sonoma Counties.

The town developed and prospered but it took Giuseppe Musante’s arrival to spark interest in the refreshing taste of the mineral water. In 1920, while drilling for a cold water well at The Railway Exchange, Musante tapped into a hot water geyser that blew him off his scaffold and burned him so badly he had to be hospitalized. Giuseppe discovered the Calistoga geyser. He sold the mineral water from the geyser as well as a number of soft drinks, out of his soda fountain until 1924, when he set up a bottling line and began selling Calistoga Sparkling Mineral Water. The company became a major player in the bottled water business after Elwood Sprenger bought the small bottling plant in 1970 known now as Calistoga Water Company.

Today
There are more than 2 dozen spas and massage therapy salons in town ranging from basic to ultimate luxe. Just as unique as the town is the restaurant selection. More than 20 restaurants – Mexican to fine California dining – with prices to fit every budget. The general dress is casual; you might want to dress up just for fun at some of the more upscale places. Reservations are advisable, especially on Saturdays and holiday periods. And of course, the wine: over 30 wineries are within a half hour drive from central Calistoga. To your health! Wine map here go

Day 1

joeC7431 — Fri, 20 Jan 2012 23:36:39 +0000

we drive to Calistoga go
On a bright sunny morning we drive north up Route 29, through the fabled Napa Valley, to the “cork in the bottle” of vineyards at the very top: Calistoga. Beautiful drive mustard in bloom, many temptations along the way, but we keep moving.

11 am arrive Calistoga for amble with Umble mini-guided tour
Ambling with Eden Umble (Chamber of Commerce), we sightsee to familiarize ourselves with downtown. Easy to do, as most action takes place on Lincoln Avenue, Calistoga’s main drag. Additional sights and activities occur on the parallel streets, 1-2 blocks north/south. The whole area is eminently walkable/bikeable with discoveries around every corner. The Carlo Marchiori trompe-l’œil murals look back to an earlier time, the Ca’ Toga Art Gallery is wonderfully baroque, and the Sharpsteen Museum a surprising, don’t miss jewel!

1 pm Watsu The Roman Spa go
3,000 years ago Romans discovered natural geothermal mineral waters and developed a soaking ritual that gradually increases blood circulation and oxygenation, eases joint and muscle pain while softening skin. The tradition continues at The Roman Spa Hot Springs Resort, the setting for our 90 minute Watsu experience, one of the classes from Calistoga’s annual Wellness Week schedule. Watsu combines water + shiatsu for healing aquatic body work. Relaxed, in chest high 96 degree water, the warmed body can be gently manipulated and stretched in ways not possible with traditional methods. Evan Massore demonstrates various Watsu techniques after which we choose partners and take turns being giver and recipient. The receiver’s body is introduced to new ways of moving resulting in greater flexibility. High point – Mary receives a professional Watsu session from giver, Evan.

2:30 pm check into Cottage Grove Inn go
Part of the fun here is having your own individual, private cottage (only 16 total). The tone is peaceful, private, romantic, and casually elegant. Ours, #7, with rockers on the front porch, has a 2-person jacuzzi and fireplace (not in the same room). Privacy gardens between cottages encourage a bird population to hang out. The tall trees canopy creates a wooded glen feeling, while sounds of fountain water gently splashing add to the tranquility. If we’re not careful, we might just stay in too long. But we pull away – wine calls!

3 pm visit micro-artisanal Lava Vine Winery go
ALocation, location, location! Just a healthy walk / easy bike ride from the Inn to the Silverado Trail. Take first right, go slow — you’re there. Owner Joe Cabral is pouring when we visit so we step right up to hear all about his flavor forward Portugese style wines. Really good wine evolves rapidly into brilliant conversation. (Or was it the other way? Can’t remember.) Joe and wife Jill recovered an old vineyard to establish Lava Vine wines. The steep hillside terroir (Knights Valley Appellation) – built of lava soil, ash and petrified wood was created 3 million years ago by lava flowing from Mount St. Helena. The terrain mandates close planting without trellises, multiple picking, and hand labor to bring in a harvest of Petit Sirah and Sirah fruit. Lava Vine’s small production (sometimes only 60 cases) of handcrafted wines are available only through the intimate tasting room/art gallery, housed in a casual and inviting barn with a patio overlooking a grove of olive trees is child and pet friendly.

4:30 pm drive by visit Calistoga Water Company go
Just next door is where it all began. The plant is closed for tours but we stopped by to peer through the fences and take pictures of a stylized metal sculpture depicting a vintage Calistoga Water Delivery Truck – with driver and dog seemingly taking a turn much too fast!

5 pm wine and cheese Cottage Grove Inn
Our afternoon winds down over wine and cheese in the dining room. Guests arrive to chat and mingle, discuss dinner plans and the day’s adventures. We select from an assortment of excellent wines and cheeses before choosing a table in front of the lighted fireplace to hang out for a time.

7:30 pm dinner Calistoga Inn Restaurant go
Ambiance options in this 90 year old building housing the Calistoga Inn & Brewery – Garden Patio with lush planting, trees and trellises for a feel of laid back California luxury – or indoors, in the warmth of an old fashioned inn dining room, charming and graced with interesting period pieces. Year round homemade brews from its award-winning Napa Valley brewing company are served. During spring, summer and fall, chefs cook over wood-fired grills while winter season features American-style comfort food. We’ve small appetites – decide to share our meal. 1st course: 6 very fresh raw oysters served with two choice sauces. Followed by a chopped Ceasar Salad – green, crisp with anchovies on the side. Main: paella – flavored with chicken, mussels, shrimp, clams, chorizo, rice and peas. Dessert: two house made specialties: peanut butter/chocolate pie and apple crisp with vanilla ice cream. A delicious, satisfying dinner to end the start of a perfect getaway.

stay Cottage Grove Inn go
Plugged in and connected, we check e-mail while enjoying the fireplace and music in the sitting area. Big comfy bed, luxe linens, choice of pillows and coverings, big jacuzzi tub, amenities by EO make us feel decadently comfortable

Day 1 photos
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Day 2

joeC7431 — Fri, 20 Jan 2012 23:36:22 +0000

8:30 am breakfast Cottage Grove Inn
Sheltered by the tall oak canopy, we cross the courtyard to the dining room where a copious breakfast buffet awaits. The fragrant abundance of luscious foods makes it hard to keep to a light regimen. Captured by fresh brewed coffee, freshly squeezed juices, fresh fruit variety, hot cereal, assorted cheeses, breads, sweet rolls and warm quiche, predictably – we cave. Over morning paper we enjoy a full satisfying breakfast.

10 am mud, massage and mineral waters Calistoga Spa Hot Springs go
The spa Just one block off the main street and we’re in the peoples Baden-Baden. One of the oldest spas in the area, Calistoga Spa has been and continues to be renovated and upgraded by new management. Guests enjoy the work out facility, mud baths, 4 mineral pools of various sizes and temperatures, and a spa offering treatments and massages. Family friendly – many come back every year renting rooms with refrigerators and cooking facilities, or barbecue in the gardens with picnic tables. Mineral pools are open to the public for day use on a space available basis.
Our visit We do it all: mud baths (ah! nothing like immersing yourself in hot mud for 30 minutes), massage and soak time in the 4 outdoor hot mineral pools. Locker/shower room for guests with scheduled treatment appointments are well equipped, spacious, secure and CLEAN. Work out facility has the latest equipment. We tour the conference/meeting and event space with Douglas Hitt, General Manager, who shares plans for future improvements. Now added to our bucket list: come up once a month, mid week, for mud, massage and the waters.

2 pm winetasting and tour Envy Wines go
The winery Award winning veteran Napa winemaker and Envy co-owner, Nils Venge, years ago produced a Cabernet Sauvingnon (while at Groth Winery) to which famed wine critic Robert Parker gave 100 points. Nils teamed up with vintner Mark Carter, to create Envy Estate Winery. Besides Envy’s wines, two other labels are made. One is Vine Haven which is Nil’s “pet project” – moderately priced line. The Carter label is premier and priced accordingly. 80% of wines are estate grown. They use the “whole berry” style, not crushed, to get lighter tannins.
Our visit Taste indoors at the long tasting counter or relax on the patio, which feels like a Tuscan terrace. If weather is right you can view Old Faithful Geyser just up the road. A little cool today, so we opt inside where Phillip Murphy, Operations Manager, guides us through a tasting – ’09 Sauvignon Blanc- (soft, tropical and stone fruit, carmely finish), – ’07 BeeBee’s Blend (Merlot, Cabernet and Petit Sirah) tasting of ripe berries and hazelnut with a finish of vanilla and white pepper, and 4 other wines, including a late harvest, before taking us out to see where wines are made.

4 pm visit Old Faithful Geyser go
So near, we can’t resist visiting this natural phenomena geothermal geyser/tourist staple. Only one of three world wide, known as “Old Faithful of California” or “Little Old Faithful” it puts on a show, day and night, at approximately 40 minutes apart. A plume of 350° water shoots 60 feet into the air for 3-4 minutes before receding. Tectonic stress interrupts the regular activity. Correlations are being studied to see if these could be used as earthquake predictors.

5 pm wine & cheese Cottage Grove Inn
Repeat performance wine and cheese in the Inn’s dining room. More chat, mingle, table in front of the fireplace.

7:30 pm dinner Brannan’s Grill go
Fine dining isn’t only about the food – it is quality at every level. Brannan’s, originally built as a garage, has 4,500 sq ft under a suspended ceiling, was renovated 14 years ago with great attention to detail – 9 foot high local fieldstone fireplace, hand crafted metal work made on site, refurbished 27 foot long 1880s Brunswich Bar, hand painted mural – feels a bit like a mens club of days gone by with subdued lighting, plenty of dark wood, lamp lit big booths, well spaced tables – very fine! We sit, socialize briefly with owner Mark Young, enjoy the fire, live piano and songs of Tim Hockenberry during our dinner, wine and dessert. Nice end to very full, satisfying day. Brannan’s offers hearty food, a changing seasonal menu and features an award-winning wine list. Our new menu order: Oysters on shell, Grilled Artichoke, Short Ribs and Black Cod Miso – creative, beautifully plated and perfectly prepared.

stay Cottage Grove Inn go

Day 2 photos
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Day 3

joeC7431 — Fri, 20 Jan 2012 23:32:51 +0000

8:30 am breakfast Cottage Grove Inn
We choose between fresh baked breads/sweet rolls, juice/custom smoothie, fresh coffee/tea, creamy quiche and enjoy a leisurely breakfast with the morning paper before photographing the bird houses around the property and take a short bike ride through this historic area of town. We schmooze with General Manager Donna Johnson and buy souvenirs from her lovely gift shop.

10 am checkout and one last walk through town
Stopped by W.H. Smith wines to meet T’Anne Butcher. She offers a unique Wine Sensory Experience go program to enhance wine tasting skills. For 90 minutes, participants take part in a variety of fun activities to gain an awareness of how flavors develop in wine, importance of the barrel (the toast, the length of time), relationship of soil and geology (minerality, eucalyptus, mint), grape varietal characteristics, the bottle – and how to develop the senses to pick up the nuances when tasting. Actual wine tasting ends the experience. We put this on the list for our next visit.

11:30 am winetasting and tour Perth Jericho Canyon Vineyard go
The winery Jericho Canyon Vineyards, on the eastern side of Calistoga, has 40 acres of Cabernet (some Merlot) growing on the steep East and West slopes of the canyon. A creek runs through at the bottom. Creekside picnic tables are available for tasters and hikers – yes, they have a “hiker’s program”. Owners Dale and Marla Bleecher bought the 120 acre cattle ranch in 1980 and created this small family run boutique winery. Tours and tastings in the caves by appointment.

Our visit With Philip Gift we hike up to the highest point for a view of the vines, the vineyard layout and to see the old oak tree (the model for the vineyard symbol) on a hillside across the canyon. The 24 blocks in the vineyard are each fermented individually. Lots of early 19th century farm and wine making equipment around the site. The winery, newly built, has the feel of the Tyrol – spare, utilitarian, comfortable, open and friendly. The wine tasting cave is beautiful – soft amber light, wine aging in hundreds of barrels, a refreshing coolness and quiet. Reds are estate grown with production 1500-2000 cases. To make the 100% Sauvingnon Blanc, native yeast is used to get soft tannin, good fruit flavor with minerality. Their 2006 Don Vinenzo, a 10% Cabernet blend, is leather – tobacco – cedar and tannic. Creek Cabernet Sauvignon (90% Cab/10% Merlot) dark color, cherry taste- is 90% of the production. The Flagship wine – 2006 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon – (100% Cab) is the “best expression of this terroir” – more acid, soft tannin, long clean finish – recieved a DOUBLE GOLD 2011 SF Chronicle Wine Competion, Philip offered us a barrel tasting of their 2009 vintage. What a great treat!

2:30 pm winetastiing and tour Castello di Amoroso go
The Castle Passing through the gates in the late afternoon winding uphill through a vineyard twe view the Castello Di Amorosa, Castle of Love, Napa Valley’s most unique winery. A small group in a mood festive is leaving as we approach — they stop to feed the goats. The low sun angle outlines stone towers against bright sky as dramatic shadows transform castle into fortress. A drawbridge leads to an entry arch fitted with huge thick wooden doors beyond which stone walls and path are visible. The castle, actually a distillation of castle essence by Dario Sattui, took 14 years to complete. Imported old brick and old world craftsman, stonecutters and bricklayers created authenticity by using 800 year old building techniques to construct the ramparts, towers and 107 rooms. The sunny courtyard, reminiscent of Tuscany, is the site of many concerts and special events. There are 8 levels, 4 above ground + 4 below. Once inside, it’s warm, safe, spacious, beautiful. The architecture and craftsmanship are exquisite and unique. We tour the chapel, dining room, dungeons and barrel room with Georg Salzner, Castello President, who is charming and knowledgeable.

The Winery Upon entering the winemaking area of The Castle its real purpose is apparent. 90 rooms are used for making, storing, tasting and selling wines. The tasting area, large yet intimate, is adjacent to the gift shop. Young families with children in strollers and people of various ages are tasting. The hosts, gracious and well informed, answer queries about the various vintages. We try Sangiovese (red plum, dried flowers), a Chianti Classico (the “diamond in the mud”), a rustic and earthy Barbera and 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon – rich & heavy after 20 months in French oak and 2 years in bottle. We sip Reserve wines and a 2006 Il Barone – 100% Cabernet Sauvignon – this one is suitable for cellaring. The small quantities of quality wine are available only at the Castello.

5 pm drive to Santa Rosa
Once more through this dramatic landscape, this time at sunset, over the narrow, winding, mountain range road seperating Napa from Sonoma.

6:45 pm see play at 6th St. Playhouse Santa Rosa go

Day 3 photos
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Credits

joeC7431 — Fri, 20 Jan 2012 23:23:30 +0000

Thanks to all who helped create this fine experience

Calistoga Chamber of Commerce

Eden Umble Public Relations & Marketing Manager
organized and facilitated the visit

For All Events

Joseph Cillo Publisher & Editor in Chief Mary Buttaro Creative & Photo Editor
together created this travel guide and photo journal